Reviewing a buffet is kind of like judging a live music
competition. Perfection is rare so you have to judge the overall performance.
Regardless, some notes have to be spot-on, there’s a minimum standard.
In a Chinese buffet there must be decent starches, rice and
noodles, and there must be more than one tasty chicken and seafood offering, as
well as a well-prepared wrapped and fried item.
It’s not important that every offering satisfy completely,
that’s the perfection that is simply beyond reasonable reach.
It also helps if there is a wide variety, as well as
something for the kids besides ice cream and cookies.
A really good buffet is one that offers one or more
stand-out dish. There are a lot of Chinese buffets out there; the winner often becomes
the one that is closest to somewhere you want to be or the one that has
something special worth the extra time or mileage.
The closest to our needs is in Festus. It’s pretty good.
This one is in Webster Groves, Angel discovered it on her way to pick up/drop off a client dog.
As it turned out she needed to make just such a pickup in the area on
Saturday, so we decided to give this newer place a try.
The Place:
A very large stand-alone on Watson
Road . I never get out this way, but
Angel does quite frequently. It’s not close to home.
The building is larger than most of the strip-mall buffets
we frequent. It was built for a large flow of people. It was also built to
please the eye. No industrial, generic furnishings. The chairs were all Asian-styled
heavy wood, stained reddish. The table tops were all a swirly orange-sherbet,
faux-marble look. The carpet was dark based and brightly patterned, more
swirls.
Partitions separating the booths and tables were also heavy,
carved, red stained wood with painted glass trim.
The entrance/foyer was large and nearly over-decorated. Large
Asian items were set up museum-style. The ceilings were high and painted
sky-blue, which made the space feel open to nature, a Zen-thing I suppose.
As with many buffets we were immediately shown our table and
asked for drinks without even sitting down. Tea, sweet tea and Coke/Pepsi.
(Coke)
There were more buffet islands than I’d ever seen in one place.
Added to that there was the hibachi area, where you could load up a bowl with raw
ingredients and hand it to a chef for grilling, Mongolian grill-style. There
was also a sushi bar with more variety than I am accustomed to seeing at the
places we frequent. The piped in music was Chinese-styled, though a bit modern
sounding. I’m no expert, but the music, those perky Chinese banjo ( ruan or 阮 ) ballads* fit
the place nicely.
The Food:
As is my custom, I loaded up my first plate with small
portions of as many things as I thought I might like. There were a dozen or
more kinds of chicken, rice, noodles, rangoons, eggrolls, shrimp in several
styles, crawfish, something creamy looking in a clam shell, several soups.
The American food section was also very generous. Potatoes,
mac and cheese, pizza, pulled pork and/or beef, fried chicken, fish, green
beans, etc.
I started with various chickens and shrimps, a rangoon ,
a crawdad (whole) and some fried rice and some noodles. I also grabbed a
steamed dumpling. My small plate was
full with about a dozen items.
Angel’s plate wasn’t too different, though she added more
veggies and she’d grabbed one of the clam-shells. Adam was pretty
straight-forward chicken and white rice. He doesn’t like fried rice because of
all the vegetable bits it contains.
The rice bothered me a little, it didn’t look right. It had
a distinct orange hue to it. It didn’t taste bad, or orange, but it was rather
bland. The noodles were much better. The chickens were fine, none overly spicy.
The best for me was the sesame version.
The bright red crawdad on my plate yielded better photo-ops
than it did flavor. It wasn’t bad, but furnished with only a fork, I had no good way to bust it
open. Crawdads look like small lobsters but taste more like crab. Mine was slightly
overcooked, a bit rubbery. Not worth the amount of work it took to get into it.
The dumpling (pot sticker) was not too bad, they hadn’t been
too heavy-handed with the ginger.
Angel reported that the beef-broccoli was spicier than she
was accustomed to, but that it was really quite good. I’m not a fan of broccoli
so I once again took her at her word.
The clam-shell thing was surprisingly quite good. It was
creamy and reminded me of a high-end spinach dip. If there was actual mollusk
in it I couldn’t detect it. I’m not a fan of mollusks either.
Adam’s second trip was pretty much all dessert. There were a lot of
options. Cakes, puddings, ice cream, lots of toppings.
Angel’s second included a stuffed shrimp, a trip to the sushi bar and a large slab of really fresh and
perfectly ripe watermelon.
One of Angel's selections was a peach-something-pastry. It was round like a small peach, but was actually layers of dough, varying in color. It had no actual taste. The white dough tasted just like the dark brown center, and that taste was not sweet, just light and dough-y.
My second plate included one Rangoon, a few more noodles and a couple of chunks of sesame chicken, along with the ubiquitous bananas with red sauce and some pretty good banana pudding.
My second plate included one Rangoon, a few more noodles and a couple of chunks of sesame chicken, along with the ubiquitous bananas with red sauce and some pretty good banana pudding.
Summary:
Dinner buffets cost $9.99 and drinks are $1.49, making this
a pretty cheap dinner, $37.99 in total, especially as an all-you-can-eat place. None of the food
was bad. The place appeared to be very clean and very well-staffed. The buffets never
went empty or stale, emptied plates disappeared quickly. The décor and ambiance were better than we are accustomed
to seeing for such inexpensive fare.
I have no idea what the deal was with the orange rice, but
since the noodles were very good, it balanced out. Some of the chicken offerings
were a bit bland, one referred to as Japan-style was rather dry, but some were quite good. There was nothing terrible or
disgusting. Unfortunately there were no smash hits either.
If you live reasonably close to Webster Groves, this place should
be on your must-try list. If you live further out, like thirty-something miles
out like we do, well, there’s just not anything special enough to make that
extra time and mileage worth it.
It was a pretty decent place, with a huge variety. Just nothing
that much better than other places.
____________
* To be fair, the music was most likely from a gugin ( 古琴 ) rather than a ruan. A ruan is a round, four-stringed lute-like instrument, whereas the gugin is a seven stringed zither-like instrument. I just thought 'Chinese banjo' was funnier.
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